France: A Strong Rebound In Advanced Apparel Industry

Sales, adverse market growth

There is no ending this season - this may be the consensus of all executives of fashion brands in this year's advanced customization.

Although SidneyToledano, President and executive officer of ChristianDior, declined to disclose the status of orders this season, he described this year as "the best in number" since he joined the French company in 1996.

Although the figures are not known, from his excited conversation, it is easy to see that the 80% sets exhibited this season were bought directly in the show, and there was no need for a customized process at all.

The increase in demand has increased the number of customers, and the high quality customers have pursued has reached the peak in advanced custom clothes.

The president of JeanPaulGaultier also described a "spectacular revival" of uniforms. Given the severity of the recession in 2009, the recovery was far ahead of the forecast for the beginning of the year. All orders indicate that customers are once again full of enthusiasm for unique ideas that only custom clothes can offer.

Givenchy's global CEO noted that the market demand rebounded from the Middle East, Russia and China. The luxury fashion giant's LVMH group's high fashion company's orders this season increased by 10%~20% compared with the previous quarter.

Almost all brands have said that Europe and the United States are still the main market for advanced uniforms, and the share of growth comes mainly from Russia, the Middle East and Asia.

Executives, however, have pointed out that the world of advanced customization is very small, and even a dozen new customers may change the fate of a brand.

For ElieSaab, although his biggest market is still in the Middle East, he has poured a new batch of customers from Russia, Turkey and CIS countries. Compared with China, India and other large emerging markets, the advanced customization is still at the initial stage.

In fact, many brands have begun to take advanced customization overseas to promote demand in emerging markets.

Dior held a tour in Shanghai in May this year, in collaboration with the reopening of the Hang Lung Plaza store and displayed its dreamy uniform.

In fact, in the final analysis, the advanced custom dress is only a very important tool for activities related to celebrities and special events, but it is very important in research, providing unlimited creativity for other product types of the brand in the future. These may be the more practical market meaning of high level customization beyond money.

New blood

A luxurious banquet for senior uniform, for their French luxury dreams such as Chanel and Dior, helped to sell the undergarments, lipsticks, perfume and so on.

For other ElieSaab, JeanPaulGaultier and other younger generation, it can set a higher position in the new market, and can have a chance to see the newspaper on the red carpet in Europe and America.

Armani the number of new customers in Brazil and Eastern Europe has increased significantly in the past two quarters. The market in India and greater China is not yet clear. However, Valentino's low-key annual sales of fur business in the Hong Kong Hotel is the private pet of the rich and small circles in the city.

　　 今年，法国高级定制工会放宽了加盟条款，让不少后辈也可以一尝滋味。今年的队伍更是壮大，出色如后起之秀AlexisMabille、ChristopheJosse、AdelineAndre、BouchraJarrar、GustavoLins、AnneValerieHash、StephaneRolland、AlexandreVauthier、RabihKayrouz等比比皆是。对于新设计师而言，高级定制是一个可以让他发挥天马行空创作的平台，人人都希望在这华丽的天地中找到一群如知心人般的客户，这般义无反顾，着实勇气可嘉。但试想假若没了这种孤勇，我们又怎会有明天的Dior、Chanel、Givenchy呢?说不定以上的名字他朝会有机会接老Karl或Galliano的棒。“最终，时装界其实是工业，设计师们毕竟要妥协和就范，但在其设计生涯中，创作无疑是艺术，也必须是艺术，否则，品牌就不可能生存下来。”现任巴黎时装及高级定制工会主席的DidierGrumbach如是说。